I think it’s appropriate to begin this post with the brief Wikipedia description of Taiwan because, frankly, I wasn’t sure whether it was correct to say it was in China, given the tense political standoff between the two countries that’s always in the headlines. Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is a country in East Asia. It is located at the junction of the East and South China Seas in the northwestern Pacific Ocean with the People’s Republic of China (PRC) to the northwest, Japan to the northeast, and the Philippines to the south. Taiwan has been on our short list of places to visit for a long time. We scheduled this trip last summer, hoping the PRC wouldn’t decide to invade the ROC before we got here — or worse, while we were here. Turns out our timing was excellent. While there are tensions building each day in the South China Sea with the PRC arming fleets of fishing boats in a menacing show of military strength, there are democratic elections scheduled in Taiwan in January to pick its next leader and the PRC is hoping the people will choose someone more interested in reunification with the Communist Mainland than in maintaining the independence status quo. So any aggression is likely to hold off till we’re safely home. It has been 11 years since we last were in the PRC, having gone several times to visit our son Ben who studied and worked there for a cumulative two and half years between 2006 and 2012. I’m sure much has changed there and here in Taiwan, as well, over the last decade. A lot of new wealth has accumulated in both countries and it certainly shows here in the multitude of gleaming new buildings, bustling businesses and expansive transportation network that allowed us to explore far and wide. There are no outward signs of poverty or homelessness here in Taipei. In fact, everything is spanking clean, everyone seems to have a motor scooter and the stores and markets and restaurants are bustling. All that said, there are also few real signs of the city’s past, at least in its architecture, except for the temples with their iconic hip-and-gable roofs. What’s really lovely about Taipei — a sprawling city of 7 million people — is that it sits in a bowl surrounded by lush, tropical mountains that are easily accessible for day trips. We went to the Beitou Hot Springs for an afternoon — a place where, during Japan’s brutal occupation of the country, World War II Kamikase pilots would spend their final days before their missions. We spent our second day in Taipei exploring the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall — an impressive monument, gardens and history museum honoring the Chinese politician, military leader and revolutionary who was the first president of the ROC. The vast square in front of the monument was the hub of events and demonstrations in the 1980s and early ‘90s that ushered in Taiwan’s modern era of democracy. As a parting thought, we were surprised at being met with a puzzled expression when we were asked by a local, "Where are you from?" and we answered "The US." Next we tried "The United States." Again, a blank stare. And then we remembered having had the same experience 13 years ago when we were in India and I had written about it in a blog post you can find here. The correct answer -- which elicits warm smiles and knowing nods -- is "America." That answer might have gotten us into hot water at universities like Stanford, where the term "American" was put on a list of banned language that is considered "offensive or harmful." It since has been removed after quite a backlash. Indeed, the answer United States eliminates the possibility we're from South America or other countries in North America. But, then, anyone tuned into the politics in our country these days would have to wonder how "united" we really are.
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We visited the Gyeongbokgung Palace today, the 14th Century royal seat of the Joseon Dynesty. That is, until it was torched by the Japanese less than two centuries later. The rebuilt complex sprawls over 100 acres and with its vast open squares and array of ceremonial and residential buildings, it reminded me of The Forbidden City in Beijing. What we weren’t expecting was to see scores of men, women and even some children dressed in what’s known as “hanbok” — traditional Korean clothing that harks back several centuries. Admission to the palace grounds is free to the costumed and to people over 65, we were pleased to learn. The unseasonably warm temperatures made for an even better parade of finery than we could have expected. I was reminded of the Sunday in Tokyo when we were surprised to see so many young women dressed in their baby doll outfits. I just love the surprises that come with mingling with other cultures in real time.
Why Korea? everyone asked when we mentioned our December destination. Actually, it had been on our short list for international travel from before Covid Times. And when I was faced with needing 4,000 more Delta points to make the all-important Diamond status for 2024, Asia was the best round-trip voyage to do the trick. So here we are in Seoul, South Korea. Apparently we’re the only Americans — or Westerners, for that matter — who decided to make the journey at this moment in time because everywhere we look we’re surrounded by Koreans, even at the the most touristy of sites. Our first day was spent walking far and wide to get our bearings and to take in the ambiance, architecture and flavors of the city. First impressions: the ancient and the ultra modern are beautifully juxtaposed here. So much of the city was destroyed in the Korean War in the early 1950s so the architecture reflects the building boom of the last 70 years — lots of interesting high-rise forms in concrete, steel and glass, but not super-tall like in New York or Dubai. In the city center there’s an outdoor exhibit detailing the history and devastation of the Korean War on Seoul, which made for an excellent introduction for our 3-day city tour. Usually we’d hire a guide for at least a day, but on this trip we’re going solo in Seoul. Other first impressions: visual and performing arts are alive and well here and housed in beautiful spaces. Shopping is a seamless mix of gritty traditional outdoor marketplaces and gleaming shopping malls — they literally flow right into each other. There are more Starbucks here than in New York and plenty of competing local coffee shop brands. Koreans clearly love their coffee. And, finally, the underground food courts we visited in the local department stores were vast and beyond mouth-watering, rivaling any we’ve seen in London or Beijing or New York. |
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