Days 9 & 10 -- Mumbai
Not only did we leave the cold weather behind when we left northern India, but when we arrived in Mumbai, we felt almost as if we'd left India behind. The British imprint on this city is significant -- from the colonial architecture to the predominantly western dress, to the churches and cathedrals that seem more common than mosques. If there were any calls to prayer, we didn't hear them. But the Indian hospitality was present in full force, as was the excellent Indian food, so we felt quite at home. Ben's friend from college, Akshay, and his family hosted and guided us with warmth and enthusiasm. And we also struck out on our own, taking the train out to the seaside suburb of Bandra, where we caught a great exhibit by Indian artist Anish Kapoor. As an added bonus, the installation was in a soundstage on the lot of the Mehoob Film Studios where lots of Bollywood films are made. Here's a link to a short video feature on the exhibit. Just click on it: http://bcove.me/k2hbxgjiweeblylink_new_window
Our rail trip took us past the neighborhood of Dharavi that was the setting for Slumdog Millionaire and even from the train window, the conditions appeared hellish. Apparently, though, the area is home to hundreds of thriving cottage industries that produce nearly a billion in marketable goods and recycling services. Aside from the garbage-choked slum, the greater city seemed to be making a big effort at keeping the streets and sidewalks clean, which was a change from the places we'd recently been. Still, there was a bit of a tired look to many of the buildings in Mumbai, which Akshay told us had a lot to do with rent and building regulations that make it difficult, if not impossible, for landlords to move tenants out to undertake major renovations. If there's one thing this city is spending money on, it's security. In the aftermath of the 2008 terrorist attacks here, the city comes close to resembling a war zone, with armed guards and military personnel on nearly every street corner. Metal detectors are everywhere. Hotels, train stations and museums have airport-style security checkpoints. I guess it's as Dorothy said to Toto, "We're not in Kansas anymore."
Our rail trip took us past the neighborhood of Dharavi that was the setting for Slumdog Millionaire and even from the train window, the conditions appeared hellish. Apparently, though, the area is home to hundreds of thriving cottage industries that produce nearly a billion in marketable goods and recycling services. Aside from the garbage-choked slum, the greater city seemed to be making a big effort at keeping the streets and sidewalks clean, which was a change from the places we'd recently been. Still, there was a bit of a tired look to many of the buildings in Mumbai, which Akshay told us had a lot to do with rent and building regulations that make it difficult, if not impossible, for landlords to move tenants out to undertake major renovations. If there's one thing this city is spending money on, it's security. In the aftermath of the 2008 terrorist attacks here, the city comes close to resembling a war zone, with armed guards and military personnel on nearly every street corner. Metal detectors are everywhere. Hotels, train stations and museums have airport-style security checkpoints. I guess it's as Dorothy said to Toto, "We're not in Kansas anymore."
vingnette from train:
...Reflections on Mumbai vs. Delhi at the street level:
Now that we've been to both New Delhi and Mumbai, I can say that the contrast in the two cities is remarkable. Though Mumbai is clearly the newer, wealthier city, the beggars were far more numerous and more destitute there. While we were occasionally solicited for money by children and adults in Delhi, more often than not there, the people looked fed, decently clothed and reasonably healthy. The children often were smiling and laughing. That was not the case in Mumbai, where life on the streets seemed more gritty, desperate and in your face. We were trailed almost everywhere we went by people with their hands extended, their frail bodies stooped, their hair matted and their eyes dull. That's not to say that the whole country isn't a study in remarkable contrasts in have and have-nots. But we just were expecting to experience it differently.